Anne Gros says her 2007 Richebourg can be drunk straightaway!!! Bertand Chevillon recommends all his wonderful 2007 Nuits-St-Georges 1er Crus for consummation as soon as they land. The usual, slow to develop, range of Volnay wines from Michel & Frederic Lafarge, can be drunk as soon as bottled! Only Arnuad Mortet said wait - until 2010!!
I cannot remember a vintage which has the capacity to be drunk as soon as 'the white flag is raised' (i.e. bottled). Good thing or bad thing?
(We'll address the whites shortly).
Bordeaux produced three successive vintages in 1991, 1992 & 1993 which the public largely chose to overlook. "Average vintages for quick consummation". "Not much to get excited about". But some people bought. I did. They weren't blockbusters; nor were they exciting. But they gave much pleasure & gave it quickly. Not much cellaring required. Suited me. As it was, I was still waiting on my trio of '88, '89 & 1990. As an interim solution they fitted perfectly. All the hallmarks of fine Bordeaux, if somewhat on the light side. To use slang - 'so what' if they were on the light side. The fact is, they gave much pleasure & I enjoyed them.
Pinot Noir 2007 from Burgundy are equally 'light', forward & pleasing. If that sounds almost patronising, consider this; what is it about Pinot Noir from Burgundy that you like? The 'terroir' character? The cherry scented, crushed raspberry aromatics? The elegant, effeminate, silky profile of the grape? The elusive, almost haunting ethereality? Maybe just the very simple flavours that are Pinot? They are all there in 2007. They may not be big on volume but they are true to style. Remember this (& this is critical to good wine), they reached alcohol potential of 12 to 12.5 oC naturally. In other words, little or no chaptalization (& this is a very healthy aspect to these wines).
So what are they like to drink? Beautifully fresh, airy, vivid, with very pure Pinot flavours. They are also transparent because of these qualities; that is to say, where there was rot, the wines show this up. Where there was virtually no rot (the better addresses will always drop berries which exhibit some rot), the wines have a pure, expressive style. They are highly aromatic, with a preponderance of red berry fruit on the nose. You get clearly defined appellation flavours. In a nutshell, the style is classic Pinot Noir.
Can the wines last / age? Of course, because they have not been sugared. Do not expect them to develop much though. What you taste now is largely what you will taste in one or three years time. In my book, its great to have a vintage like this - no decanting, ceremony or cellaring. Just lovely Pinot expression. What's wrong with that?
And the Whites?
Burgundy produced racehorses!! Full of nervous tension. It's the bracing acidity, citrus lime & pent up energy that almost knocks you down. Like sprint horses. As with their red counterparts, they are strikingly FRESH. Airy, pure, wonderfully aromatic & neither bloated nor viscous.
Similar to the classic 2004's, which are mineral, racy & full of stony, chalky, overtones!!
Far less buxom & blowsy than the super-ripe 2006's. Much more revealing than the 2005's. Definately first cousins of the 2004's. This is my favourite style of Burgundian Chardonnay. Most are lovely to drink early, though many of the premier crus need a year or two (possibly more) I guess. We'll see how they get on.
To boot; vintages like 2004 & 2007 produced wines which are particularly terroir-driven. Put simply - the Meursaults, Pulignys & Chassagnes have clearly defined village traits & the wines are true-to-type. Appellations are well delineated. Blind tastings are less daunting in these vintages!
Ignore 2007 Burgundy if you choose. Somehow I think you're missing something though!
Thursday, September 17, 2009
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